How to Make Bias Tape from Scrap Fabric
Bias tape is one of those small sewing supplies that can transform a handmade garment. It neatly finishes armholes, necklines, hems, quilt edges, and seam allowances while adding a thoughtful flash of color inside or outside a project. Making your own binding also gives you far more control over width, fabric weight, and pattern coordination than buying a packaged roll.
The process is straightforward: select a suitable scrap, cut strips diagonally across the grain, join them into a continuous length, and press the strip into shape. The bias direction allows the fabric to stretch and curve, which is why homemade tape sits so smoothly around rounded edges.
This is also an excellent way to use remnants left from dressmaking. A small piece that is too narrow for another garment may still produce enough binding for a pocket, cuff, or neckline. For more sewing projects, pattern experiments, and fabric ideas, the Victoria Lucille Anne blog is a useful place to explore handmade fashion in practice.
Why Bias Tape Is Worth Making
The defining feature of bias tape is its direction. Woven fabric has lengthwise and crosswise threads that intersect at right angles, but the bias lies at approximately 45 degrees to those threads. Cutting along this diagonal gives the strip flexibility and allows it to curve without forming bulky folds.
Straight-grain fabric strips work well for some edges, such as a squared quilt border, but they resist rounded shapes. Bias binding is better for necklines, armholes, curved pocket openings, and decorative piping. It can be sewn to the inside of a garment for a clean finish or turned to the outside as a visible design feature.
Handmade binding can also make a project look more cohesive. Use the same fabric as the garment for a subtle finish, or choose a contrasting remnant for a deliberate accent. Small floral prints, ginghams, and woven stripes can create an attractive detail even when most of the binding remains inside the garment.
Choose Scraps and Calculate Width
Start with a stable woven fabric rather than a stretchy knit. Cotton lawn, quilting cotton, linen, lightweight denim, cotton poplin, and many rayon challis fabrics can work, although very fluid materials may require careful pressing. Avoid scraps with stretched-out edges, heavy fraying, large holes, or permanent creases across the area you plan to cut.
The amount of fabric needed depends on the finished width and total length. For single-fold bias tape, begin with a strip approximately four times wider than the finished binding. A finished width of ½ inch therefore requires a 2-inch strip. For double-fold tape, a 2-inch starting strip typically produces binding close to ½ inch when folded, though the exact result varies with fabric thickness and folding method.
Before cutting, measure the edge that needs covering and add extra length for joins, corners, and handling. A neckline measuring 24 inches may need 28 to 30 inches of tape. When working with several small pieces, join them first or plan to connect many short strips. It is better to have a little too much than to discover that the final length stops just short of the starting point.
Cut Strips on the True Bias
Press the fabric before marking. A smooth, square piece makes accurate cutting much easier. Place the fabric on a flat surface and identify the selvage, which runs parallel to the lengthwise grain. Fold one corner toward the opposite edge so that the selvage meets a crosswise edge; the resulting diagonal fold indicates the true bias.
Mark parallel lines across the fabric using a ruler, quilting ruler, chalk pencil, or washable fabric pen. Keep the lines at the width you calculated. A rotary cutter and self-healing mat create the cleanest edges, but sharp fabric scissors work perfectly well for a small quantity. Cut slowly and keep the fabric flat so the strips do not become distorted.
If the scrap is too small for long diagonal strips, cut several shorter pieces. A continuous strip is convenient, but separate lengths can be joined with diagonal seams. Avoid cutting from a loosely woven area unless you plan to stabilize the tape, since the diagonal edges may stretch or fray significantly while you work.
Join and Press the Strips
To connect two bias strips, place them right sides together at a right angle. The ends should extend beyond one another so the joined seam forms a diagonal rather than a straight line across the tape. Mark a line from the upper corner to the lower corner, stitch along it, and trim the seam allowance to about ¼ inch.
Open the seam and press it flat. A diagonal join creates a smoother transition than a perpendicular seam, especially when the binding is folded around a curved edge. Continue adding strips until you reach the required length. Before pressing the entire piece, gently pull it lengthwise to settle the weave, but do not stretch aggressively.
For single-fold binding, press both long edges toward the wrong side by the same amount. A bias tape maker can speed up this step: feed the strip through the tool and press the emerging folds with an iron. For double-fold binding, first press the strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, then fold each raw edge inward toward the center crease. Press carefully, keeping the width consistent.
Compare Binding Options
The best method depends on the fabric, the edge being finished, and whether the tape will be visible. A narrow curved neckline usually benefits from lightweight double-fold binding, while a quilt edge may need a wider, more substantial strip. Test a short sample before committing to a full garment.
| Binding style | Starting strip | Best uses | Main consideration |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single-fold | About four times the finished width | Necklines, armholes, seam finishes | Uses less bulk but may need an additional turn under |
| Double-fold | About four times the finished width | Quilt edges, exposed garment edges, straps | Strong and tidy, though thicker on lightweight fabric |
| Narrow bias facing | Around 1½–2 inches | Lightweight blouses and dresses | Requires precise pressing and stitching |
| Wide decorative binding | 3 inches or more | Pockets, hems, blankets, contrast details | Creates a visible design element and may need extra fabric |
| Pieced bias tape | Varies by project | Small scraps and color-blocked finishes | Diagonal joins must be pressed accurately |
When deciding between styles, consider how many layers will meet at the edge. Thick denim or wool can become bulky with double-fold tape, while delicate cotton may benefit from a narrow single-fold finish. The tape should support the edge without overpowering it or making it stiff.
Follow a Reliable Sewing Workflow
Once the tape is pressed, attach it with the garment or project positioned so you can control the edge. For an enclosed finish, place one raw edge of the binding against the raw edge of the fabric, right sides together. Stitch along the first crease, then wrap the tape over the edge and secure it from the right side or by hand.
On a curved edge, ease the binding around the shape instead of pulling it tight. Bias fabric will flex naturally, but excessive tension can make a neckline ripple. Use plenty of pins or clips, and stitch slowly through tight curves. A slightly shorter binding can draw up the edge, while a much longer one may create small folds.
- Test the finished width on a scrap before cutting the full length.
- Use a fresh needle and matching thread for a clean line of stitching.
- Press each join and fold as you go rather than waiting until the end.
- Clip or notch enclosed curved seams so the edge turns smoothly.
- Trim bulky seam allowances before wrapping the binding over them.
For a professional finish, understitch the first seam where possible. This keeps the binding rolled slightly toward the inside and prevents it from peeking out. If the tape is visible, choose a thread color that complements the fabric and maintain an even stitch length around the entire edge.
Solve Common Problems
Uneven tape usually begins with inaccurate marking or a ruler that shifts during cutting. Recheck the width at several points along the strip. Minor differences can disappear in a loose project, but they become obvious on a narrow neckline or a line of exposed binding. When precision matters, rotary-cut the strips and use a cutting guide.
If the tape twists, inspect the joins before pressing. The diagonal seams should all face the same direction, and the strip should lie flat when stretched gently across the work surface. Twisting can also happen when a long strip is pulled through a tape maker too quickly. Feed it steadily and press small sections rather than dragging the entire length.
Fraying is normal on bias-cut edges, particularly with linen or loosely woven cotton. Handle the strips gently, reduce unnecessary movement, and consider applying a lightweight starch before cutting. A very soft fabric may also need a lightweight fusible interfacing, especially if it will be used as a strap or exposed trim.
Ripples along the finished edge usually indicate that the binding was stretched during stitching or that the garment edge was stretched while being handled. Stay-stitch a delicate neckline before applying the tape, use a walking foot if helpful, and let the iron shape the binding rather than forcing it into place with your hands.
Store and Use Every Length
Once the tape is made, wind it around a piece of cardboard or a small spool and label the width, fabric content, and whether it is single- or double-fold. Storing lengths this way prevents creases and makes future sewing sessions faster. Keep scraps of matching fabric with the roll if you may need to make more later.
Bias tape made from scraps has many uses beyond basic seam finishing. It can become a drawstring, apron tie, bookmark, bunting loop, fabric-wrapped cord, quilt binding, or narrow shoulder strap. A collection of coordinated remnants can also be pieced into colorful trim for children’s clothing, tote bags, and home accessories.
When planning your next project, set aside larger remnants before placing them in the scrap bin. Pieces measuring 8 to 10 inches across may be ideal for short bias strips, while longer remnants can provide enough continuous tape for a complete neckline. Keeping a few standard widths in mind turns fabric leftovers into a practical sewing resource.
Put Handmade Binding to Work
Making bias tape from scrap fabric is a small skill with a wide range of applications. With accurate diagonal cutting, neat joins, and patient pressing, even an irregular remnant can become a polished finish. The result can match a garment perfectly, introduce a contrasting detail, or rescue a project when the right commercial trim is unavailable.
Set aside a few suitable scraps, mark the true bias, and make a short test strip before working on your main project. Add the finished binding to a neckline, pocket, quilt edge, or handmade gift, then keep the remaining lengths organized for future sewing.